speedclimb

2011-11-25T22:06:00.000-08:00

ON 11/16/11 I set out to do more challenges in a day than the best record on this endeavor previously set by Nick Diaz, who completed 61 challenges in a day. In order to do this I would need to climb, boulder, swim, ride, run, lift and exercise a ton.

Starting at 6:26 am and finishing at 10:05 pm I ended up doing 68 challenges, along with Mike Rogers who joined me for all but two that he did separately than me. - Mike did two challenges I did not do and I did two he did not do.

Here's a list in no particular order of things we did during the day:

Climbed 40 routes, half being 5.10 or harder, one 5.12 twice
Bouldered 35 problems and 3 long traverses
Bench pressed my body weight
120 jumping jacks, 10 burpees, 100 crunches, 69 situps, ten push ups, four one arm pushups
Ran a 9 minute mile
did 21 pull-ups, one muscle up, 15 push-ups, 68 lunges, 60 squats, 11 one legged squats, 11 one legged butt to heel squats, 5 squats on a Bosu ball, 5 squats with body weight on shoulders, 200 jump ropes, 10 bar dips, and 12 back extensions.
1500 meters on a rowing ergometer, 100 calories burned on an eliptical machine, 100 floors climbed on a stairmaster.
Took a Yoga and Cardio Boxing class.
held two 25 lb plates smooth sides out with one hand, closed a Captains of Crush #1
Campused: 1-3-5, 1-4-6, two handed dyno one and two rung gaps
swam 11 lengths of a 18 meter pool.
two 10 minute steam sessions

I didn't feel "too sore" the day after, but was noticeably tired for a few days. What if every week of your life you did something stressful enough on your body that you felt sore from it? would you be incredible fit for just about anything?

2011-11-21T05:36:00.000-08:00

On October 13th I climbed for the first time with Alex Honnold. (the young man featured on 60 minutes a month ago http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7383158n ) We climbed The Nose route in 4:37. On the way to the base Alex said: "you don't get out that much, you can lead me up the whole thing if you want." I lead the route to camp four and Alex led the second half.

One week later, October 20th, we climbed The Nose again and made it in 3:16:30. I led to the Boot Flake and Alex led to the top.

On November 1st we climbed The Nose in 2:37:30. Same deal, I led to The Boot and Alex led to the top. Interestingly we both led for about 1:18. This was just 45 seconds slower than the existing record and 25 seconds slower than my best time set in 2008 with Yuji Hirayama.(Sean and Dean have the best time right now)

We've been starting the route anywhere from 8am to 11 am in the morning, depending on our schedules and the temperatures. Temps are as low as 50 in the valley floor but always above 60 or 70 on the wall where we start the climb.

You can see an article on our attempt here: http://www.fresnobee.com/2011/11/02/2600120/yosemite-climbers-attempt-speed.html or see facebook posts here: http://www.facebook.com/hans.florine

The weather looks like it has decided it for us. - We'll have to let the record stand for another 7 to 11 months. The route is too wet and likely won't dry out until May or later.

I believe now I have the season updates now included in the following pages. http://speedclimb.com/yosemite/compare.htm and here: http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/Elcap.htm

Give credit where it is due! If you or someone you know has climbed NIAD, make sure they are on the list.

In case any of you want to train with me in person I'm often at www.Diablorockgym.com (I manage the place) Just last week I did 68 challenges in a single day. see link There is a ton of fitness things we can all do to stay sane during the "dark days of winter."

Hoping you all got in your Fall Climbing goals or better yet are still getting after them. (like me)

Speed be with you.

Hans

2011-07-25T10:04:00.001-07:00

Well I did go up on the week of June 13th and I got up The Nose twice!

On Monday June 13th with Lisa Coleman in 15:30:16 Between Dolt and El Cap Tower we passed a Japanese team, Mr Kim and Mr Sianagee. Mr Sianagee had come to Yosemite in 1981 to climb The Nose. He had only made it half way through the stove legs and had to return to the ground. He was already four pitches past his high point of 30 years prior!

I rested two days and headed up The Nose on Thursday with Craig Demartino. Craig had lost his right leg below the knee some years back due to a climbing accident. I climbed Lurking Fear with Craig in 2007 in a day.(Craig led half the route) Craig and I passed no fewer than 8 parties and we're passed by a NIAD Team. We passed people from Korea, Japan, Wisconsin, California, and from Yosemite. Our time was 13:47:13. We took a little rest below the Great Roof so I could get a haircut from my friend Sarah Land. This may be a first! A three footed ascent AND a haircut In A Day!

As Craig and I arrived at the Wild stance below the final crack and bolt ladder, the last pitch, we ran into,... you guessed it, Mr Kim and Mr Sianagee! At 6:50 pm he was looking like he was going to spend that night on the summit. That must have been one heck of an emotional summit for him. I guess that was a first too, - not even Warren Harding took 30 years to get up the route.

2011-06-10T07:01:00.001-07:00

Funny reading my last post on March 31st stating that Spring was almost here! I think Spring this year was June 1st to June 5th.

Gear tip: Buy some Link Cams from Omega Pacific! You've probably heard that they can plug in anywhere and heard that they get stuck easy. Maybe you've heard that they've broken. All true. and they break in particularly poor placements where nearly ANY OTHER CAM has been shown to break as well. yes, they are expensive, but the price is worth the performance they deliver. I've been caught saying that using them is cheating. Tip: do not bury the cam deep in a crack, alas do not bury ANY CAM deep in a crack. Most cams in most placements "walk" deeper into a crack, for ease of cleaning you want to place a cam as shallow in the crack as is safe for holding a fall.

I am headed to Yosemite next week with a plan to climb El Cap twice in four days. Although I've been managing Diablo Rock Gym* the past 6 months, I haven't been getting in much crack climbing. We all know that outside climbing has it's skills that take some practice getting back to speed:) I've been making a trip or two to GWPC and BIW to run a lap or two on their cracks. If you need an introduction or re-intro to outdoor climbing, join me: http://www.mtadventure.com/pages/rock/special.html

Although it will be less frequent this summer, remember I lead a train for climbing class on Tuesday evenings at 8pm at Diablo Rock Gym. Check their calendar for dates.

I hope you'll all make THE LIST this year or report in to me if your name is already missing. http://www.noseinaday.com/

For shorter tidbits: http://twitter.com/hansflorine and: http://www.facebook.com/hans.florine

2011-03-31T15:16:00.000-07:00

Spring is basically here! what should I do about my gear?

What sort of rack should you build for heading outside?

As point of reference I pull up what Yuji Hirayama and I used to climb The Nose In A Day, (NIAD) in 2002 and "flush out" a rack from there so that you can get up most any climb.

"For our 2002 ascent we carried one #3 camalot, one #2, two #1s, one.75, one .5, and doubles below that,(some of our smaller cams were Metolious tricams). 6 nuts, one cam hook, one etrier, 17 quick draws, 18 free biners, 6 long runners, a Gri gri, a couple lockers, Petzl jugs, and a set of JJs, (jugging loops)."

If you are only free climbing you can ignore the etriers, jugs, and JJs.

Here's the things I'd add to the above rack for anyone who just wants to have a reasonable rack to take on just about any trad climb.:

A set of tiny offset Nuts, and 6 more .5 to 1 inch regular nuts.

A #.5, #.75, #1, and #2 Link-Cam from Omega Pacific (These didn't exist in 2002)

Two Cordelets, theses are 5 to 7 mm cords in 18 to 22 ft in length, great for anchors on trees, gear, LARGE boulders, or bolts.

Offset Metolious tricams are really nice for pin scares or any flaring placement. Get the middle four of the six sizes they make.

Get a rappel device, I would most recommend a Petzl Reverso as it has Top Belay lock off capabilities that a regular stitch plate device does not have. -the Reverso only costs a small bit more than a standard stitch plate type device.

If you know you are going to be doing wide cracks then buy another #2 camalot, another #3 and two #4s. There are very few cracks that are continuously wide and require more than this, on the occasion that they do, I recommend asking to borrow from friends. (ask me if you need)

Lastly if you know a crack you are headed up is notorious for a certain size for a long distance than add to this rack accordingly or borrow. For the people who really like to have plenty of everything and then some get more in the .5 to 1.5 inch range than I've listed.

Happy climbing,

Hans

2011-03-26T22:28:00.000-07:00

BIG WALL Speed Competition! Awesome! Figures it is in an Eastern Block area. Wish I could go! http://paklenica.hr/Paklenica_en/Paklenica_BWSC_2011_EN.htm

2011-03-26T09:07:00.000-07:00

I just committed to going to Boulder CO for the National Championships. I did my first 5.13 in 7 or 8 years. Time to ramp up.

2011-03-09T07:50:00.000-08:00

I am now the manager at Diablo Rock Gym in Concord California. We are having a great time with a community of motivated people all psyched to get fit for various reasons. Stop in if you are in the neighborhood. http://diablorockgym.com/

We've got a challenge list going for 2011 that is really getting people fit and they are having fun doing it. That's the key isn't it! http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11478976/2011DIABLORockGymChallengeList.pdf

2011-01-03T21:57:00.000-08:00

I am offering a day of climbing, (in 2011), to anyone who donates
$2,000, in my and their name, to any of the organizations listed
below. You must commit and actually make payment to the
organization by end of the day Friday January 14th 2011.

(no particular order)
http://www.accessfund.org/
http://www.aynrand.org/
http://www.bigcitymountaineers.org/
http://www.yobasecamp.com/fund.htm
http://www.naturebridge.org/yosemite
http://lasf.org/
http://www.yosemiteconservancy.org/

feel free to call or email me with questions regarding limitations of this offer. (Minimally you must be able to pay for my expenses to get to the climbing place where we share the day)

2010-11-03T20:21:00.001-07:00

You've got a Thermarest or camping pad that sits in your closet or garage for 362 days out of the year. Let's put it to use more often! - Do ab exercises on it!

One of the reasons it is difficult to do ab exercises is that on a hard floor or even moderately cushioned carpeted floor your lower back is hurting from the ground pressure on it. If you are wearing a belt or the waist band on your pants is bulky it is worse. However if you've got a pad that you've kept handy in your family room discreetly hidden behind the couch then it's super easy and comfortable to bust out some abs while you are watching TV or in between Face Book and blogging posts.

I have been doing 100 abs a day for over 4 years now. Keeping a strong core is really fantastic for avoiding injury in any endeavor. so... Put your camping pads to use!

2010-10-16T21:41:00.000-07:00

Habitual fitness.

I am now four years into doing 100 abs a day. Initially it was a challenge thrown out that it would be tough to do 100 reps for 100 days of anything. http://fitnessrank.com/100club/ - it didn't matter if it was push-ups, squats, or pull-ups. Abs seemed to be the easiest so I tried that first. I failed many times, I distinctly remember getting as far as 79 days consecutively one time and missing a day, Then! having to start over! I can also remember being on a BART train at 11:45 pm one night and realizing I hadn't done my situps yet! Darn the carpet on those trains has no padding. Eventually I did do the 100 day straight run. My friend Rich Fettke actually went a year without missing a day. I managed doing a year with only missing 7 days. I did "make-up days" and realized that to average 100 abs a day from then on out would be a healthy habit. Each year I moved to a different ab exercise. Sit-ups, crunchs, Atomic Situps, bicycles, etc. two years ago I tried adding push-ups to the regime and kept having trouble keeping up. Finally I got where I could do 10 push-ups everyday for a year. Last year I bumped it up to 40 push-ups every day and now have been doing that in addition to the abs for 14 months. this month I started doing 20 squats and 50 hand gripper closings as well.

Go ahead and give 100 reps for 100 days a try without missing a single day. I've now done it for Sit-ups, Jumping Jacks, and Pull-ups.

2010-10-12T13:28:00.000-07:00

OK, It's October 12th, - two years to the day that we set the speed record on The Nose of El Cap. And it's Columbus day - this week. "They said it couldn't be done."

It was a cool summer and who knows what will happen in the next month, but we all know what is going to happen in two months. - It will be too cold and wet to climb in Yosemite. SOOO get out there and get some climbing in.

I got in a great day of three medium length routes at Lovers Leap last weekend. temps were awesome. Did you know I can legally guide at Lovers Leap? not much time left this season to do it. try getting me directly or using www.skaboosh.com

happy climbing

2008-07-01T06:40:00.000-07:00

Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine ARE going for The world record Wedneday the 2nd of July see the latest here: http://speedclimb.com/

2008-06-27T13:33:00.000-07:00

El CApitan , The NOse Record, working on it NOW, June 27th. just go straight to http://speedclimb.com/ to get latest updates.

I was on the front of the SF Chronicle yesterday.

H

2008-02-11T21:50:00.000-08:00

Online live training/coaching with Hans! set up a time and he'll share his desktop and speak with you live. Hans at speedclimb dot com

Train with Hans in the SF Bay area. Hans at speedclimb dot com

PLAY in Yosemite, STAY in yosemite. www.hansbasecamp.com

2007-11-28T13:09:00.001-08:00

AWESOME WAY to get in an endurance climbing workout!- AND raise money for the fabulous Stacey Collver!

2007 Mt. Everest Challenge to Benefit Stacey Li Collver

5^th Annual Climb-a-thon!

Sunday, Dec. 2, 2007

1:30 to 5:30 p.m.

Planet Granite Gym in Sunnyvale
(408) 991-9090

2007-11-28T13:08:00.000-08:00

November 10th I climbed the Nose in 5:26 with Mark Melvin.

2007-11-11T15:51:00.000-08:00

Well, after congratulating the Hubers on their record I went up and have now taken two runs up the Nose to see where my fitness level is for taking back the record.

Mark Melvin and I climbed the route in 8:35 three weeks ago and yesterday, Saturday the 3rd of November we climbed the route in 5:26. Mark led the first half and I the second. We made a few logistical areas and were feeling a little shy of the "yosemite fitness" we need to have for the record. So it's more training and we'll be back. want to train with us? www.fitnessrank.com/turkeyburn

2007-10-09T13:29:00.000-07:00

THEY GOT IT! -TWICE

The Huber's ran up the route in 2:48:35 and then again in 2:45:45.

see more at speedclimb.com/forum.

cheers.

Hans

2007-09-20T12:52:00.000-07:00

On Sunday September 16th I ran into the Huber Brothers in El Cap Meadow. They seemed in good spirits after their ten hour ascent of The Nose the day before. -They flew in on Friday so it was just a jet-lag-reducing ascent.

Thomas says he'll graciously only beat the current record by 5 or so minutes so there's more to cut off for future parties.

I predict 2:36 - Go Hubers!

If you have news from the valley on their preparations or the day they'll make their first attempts at the record please post, so those close by can come cheer them on.

Hans

2007-08-10T07:10:00.000-07:00

I'll be doing a LIVE webinar on climbing The Nose in early September. check back here or at: www.NoseInADay.com for the exact date and time.

I lead a training for climbing class every Monday and Wednesday night at 8pm at the Touchstone Concord gym. Come join us, you first class is free, and always free to Touchstone members. http://touchstoneclimbing.com/cd.html

2007-07-18T12:42:00.000-07:00

My home is for sale in Yosemite!

http://hansbasecamp.com/lot.html

2007-06-30T07:22:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago I did my first descent of The Nose route on El Capitan In A Day! We rappeled the route to shoot HD and Film for an upcoming Warren Miller Production that will be aired on the Weather Channel in October 2007. Stay tuned.

2007-06-30T07:21:00.000-07:00

I'm Power Bar's athlete of the month. Well it least I'm telling you the last day of the month.

2007-05-20T08:37:00.000-07:00

I trained in the gym yesterday. I got a 628 score on the "gym workout sheet" with in a two hour time period. see: http://fitnessrank.com/workoutsheets/ I'm still teaching/leading a training class for climbing every Monday and Wednesday evenings at 8pm. see: http://touchstoneclimbing.com/cd_map.html

2007-04-22T08:45:00.000-07:00

got my GARMIN GPS device uploading adventures, cool!

hansflorine.motionbased.com

2007-04-18T07:37:00.000-07:00

Question about climbing?! or answer to a climbing situation?

Ask or give it here so everyone can benefit.

Can YOU climb The Nose In a Day? go to the following link to find out: NIAD test http://dave.clendenan.ca/cgi-bin/nose.cgi

Hans

2007-03-19T07:14:00.000-07:00

I am now settling into a more routine schedule in the city. I'm leading a "training for climbing class" on Monday and Wednesday nights at 8pm, Touchstone Concord. http://touchstoneclimbing.com/cd_tour.html I also do a "score your workout class" at the Touchstone Concord gym every other Saturday at 7am. Both classes are free to members. Working at gaining exposure to this page http://fitnessrank.com/workoutsheets/ and it's home page. - check it out.

hope you're all taking the time to be great.

Hans

2006-07-20T13:31:00.000-07:00

I operate my blog on my own site. Please visit: www.speedclimb.com/forum

The forum is up and working while the blog is working it is not as useful as the forum.

For my professional speaking site please see: www.hansflorine.com

Best premises to you!

Hans