Friday, June 10, 2011

Funny reading my last post on March 31st stating that Spring was almost here! I think Spring this year was June 1st to June 5th.

Gear tip: Buy some Link Cams from Omega Pacific! You've probably heard that they can plug in anywhere and heard that they get stuck easy. Maybe you've heard that they've broken. All true. and they break in particularly poor placements where nearly ANY OTHER CAM has been shown to break as well. yes, they are expensive, but the price is worth the performance they deliver. I've been caught saying that using them is cheating. Tip: do not bury the cam deep in a crack, alas do not bury ANY CAM deep in a crack. Most cams in most placements "walk" deeper into a crack, for ease of cleaning you want to place a cam as shallow in the crack as is safe for holding a fall.

I am headed to Yosemite next week with a plan to climb El Cap twice in four days. Although I've been managing Diablo Rock Gym* the past 6 months, I haven't been getting in much crack climbing. We all know that outside climbing has it's skills that take some practice getting back to speed:) I've been making a trip or two to GWPC and BIW to run a lap or two on their cracks. If you need an introduction or re-intro to outdoor climbing, join me: http://www.mtadventure.com/pages/rock/special.html

Although it will be less frequent this summer, remember I lead a train for climbing class on Tuesday evenings at 8pm at Diablo Rock Gym. Check their calendar for dates.

I hope you'll all make THE LIST this year or report in to me if your name is already missing. http://www.noseinaday.com/

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