Friday, November 25, 2011

ON 11/16/11 I set out to do more challenges in a day than the best record on this endeavor previously set by Nick Diaz, who completed 61 challenges in a day. In order to do this I would need to climb, boulder, swim, ride, run, lift and exercise a ton.

Starting at 6:26 am and finishing at 10:05 pm I ended up doing 68 challenges, along with Mike Rogers who joined me for all but two that he did separately than me. - Mike did two challenges I did not do and I did two he did not do.

Here's a list in no particular order of things we did during the day:

Climbed 40 routes, half being 5.10 or harder, one 5.12 twice
Bouldered 35 problems and 3 long traverses
Bench pressed my body weight
120 jumping jacks, 10 burpees, 100 crunches, 69 situps, ten push ups, four one arm pushups
Ran a 9 minute mile
did 21 pull-ups, one muscle up, 15 push-ups, 68 lunges, 60 squats, 11 one legged squats, 11 one legged butt to heel squats, 5 squats on a Bosu ball, 5 squats with body weight on shoulders, 200 jump ropes, 10 bar dips, and 12 back extensions.
1500 meters on a rowing ergometer, 100 calories burned on an eliptical machine, 100 floors climbed on a stairmaster.
Took a Yoga and Cardio Boxing class.
held two 25 lb plates smooth sides out with one hand, closed a Captains of Crush #1
Campused: 1-3-5, 1-4-6, two handed dyno one and two rung gaps
swam 11 lengths of a 18 meter pool.
two 10 minute steam sessions

I didn't feel "too sore" the day after, but was noticeably tired for a few days. What if every week of your life you did something stressful enough on your body that you felt sore from it? would you be incredible fit for just about anything?

Monday, November 21, 2011

On October 13th I climbed for the first time with Alex Honnold. (the young man featured on 60 minutes a month ago ) We climbed The Nose route in 4:37. On the way to the base Alex said: "you don't get out that much, you can lead me up the whole thing if you want." I lead the route to camp four and Alex led the second half.

One week later, October 20th, we climbed The Nose again and made it in 3:16:30. I led to the Boot Flake and Alex led to the top.

On November 1st we climbed The Nose in 2:37:30. Same deal, I led to The Boot and Alex led to the top. Interestingly we both led for about 1:18. This was just 45 seconds slower than the existing record and 25 seconds slower than my best time set in 2008 with Yuji Hirayama.(Sean and Dean have the best time right now)

We've been starting the route anywhere from 8am to 11 am in the morning, depending on our schedules and the temperatures. Temps are as low as 50 in the valley floor but always above 60 or 70 on the wall where we start the climb.

You can see an article on our attempt here: or see facebook posts here:

The weather looks like it has decided it for us. - We'll have to let the record stand for another 7 to 11 months. The route is too wet and likely won't dry out until May or later.

I believe now I have the season updates now included in the following pages. and here:

Give credit where it is due! If you or someone you know has climbed NIAD, make sure they are on the list.

In case any of you want to train with me in person I'm often at (I manage the place) Just last week I did 68 challenges in a single day. see link There is a ton of fitness things we can all do to stay sane during the "dark days of winter."

Hoping you all got in your Fall Climbing goals or better yet are still getting after them. (like me)

Speed be with you.