Monday, July 25, 2011

Well I did go up on the week of June 13th and I got up The Nose twice!

On Monday June 13th with Lisa Coleman in 15:30:16 Between Dolt and El Cap Tower we passed a Japanese team, Mr Kim and Mr Sianagee. Mr Sianagee had come to Yosemite in 1981 to climb The Nose. He had only made it half way through the stove legs and had to return to the ground. He was already four pitches past his high point of 30 years prior!

I rested two days and headed up The Nose on Thursday with Craig Demartino. Craig had lost his right leg below the knee some years back due to a climbing accident. I climbed Lurking Fear with Craig in 2007 in a day.(Craig led half the route) Craig and I passed no fewer than 8 parties and we're passed by a NIAD Team. We passed people from Korea, Japan, Wisconsin, California, and from Yosemite. Our time was 13:47:13. We took a little rest below the Great Roof so I could get a haircut from my friend Sarah Land. This may be a first! A three footed ascent AND a haircut In A Day!

As Craig and I arrived at the Wild stance below the final crack and bolt ladder, the last pitch, we ran into,... you guessed it, Mr Kim and Mr Sianagee! At 6:50 pm he was looking like he was going to spend that night on the summit. That must have been one heck of an emotional summit for him. I guess that was a first too, - not even Warren Harding took 30 years to get up the route.